Aurangabad: Go big or go home

Precursor: The weekend I am going to share was actually last weekend, as in 8 days ago. I have been so busy that this upload hasnt been possible, but today is the day!

It doesn’t get much better than this.

Normally my entries involve my weekly duties and random adventures, but I am now compelled to dedicate an entire post to my weekend adventures. They deserve their own place in IndiaandShelane… it has been that good.

Happy reading!

Weekend number 8 in India: Aurangabad.

Before I begin this story, take heed that I made every decision only after thoroughly evaluating the situation. I have always been very good at reading peoples intentions; ‘following my gut’ has kept me safe and well for 23 years. At no time this weekend did I feel unsafe or even unsure of a decision I was making. India is very different from the United States, and while I took the path less forged, it was a complete success in just about every way possible. I had a truly wonderful 48 hours.

This weekend was wonderful because of three things. 1. It was the first weekend I was flying solo into unknown territory, which was personally exhilarating! 2. Aurangabad offered me amazing tourism and historical monuments that captivated me hour after hour. I experienced centuries of history with every footstep. 3. I may have broke every rule in the book of traveling by yourself.

I wish there were a better way to say #3  without sounding completely irresponsible, but at the moment I cant think of any other way to say it. I broke every golden rule about traveling by yourself- many could categorize my decisions as rash and irresponsible, but in my view, my weekend was perfect. I never felt in jeopardy, unsafe of unsure of my choices.

Talking with strangers

Changing hotel plans on a whim, one hour before arrival.

Getting a personal guide through the Ajantha caves from both an unregistered tour guide and a registered tour guide. Costly taken advantage of--- but loved it either way.

Searching (using all methods possible) through crowds to find an English interpreter to help me buy something from a vender at the market (not unacceptable but very forward by India standard).

Accepting a scooter ride back to the hotel from a male vendor I had just met instead of a regular rickshaw—near dusk AKA it was dark

Drinking wine. (Yes, alcohol—as a woman)

Traveling and sightseeing in a new city in a country 8000 miles away from home….. by myself. It couldn’t have gone better.

Go big, or go home

November 18, Friday

Day one:

Bus ride from Pune to Arungabard. Six hours. The first three hours went by slowly and my Ipod serenaded me the whole way; then mid ride potty-break for the bus driver, and time for tea. I have continually commented on Indians love for teatime, and even with public transportation it remains the same. At teatime I met a new friend, her name was Purva. We both ordered tea, and she sat next to me. She was a student at the top science-engineering college in Pune. She studies architecture. She grew up in Aurangabad, but commutes to Pune every week for school. We were just chatting about this and that and about my adventures in India when, where I was scheduled to stay for the weekend came up. I told her, Hotel Rajistan; her face changed slightly and she said ‘Rajistan?’

“Its that bad?” I asked

“Its not that bad, but it is also not good. It is more of a lodging area for a night or two. But if you’re coming on a weekend get-away you should undoubtedly stay somewhere else. You should really enjoy your weekend. She is so right, I thought!

After that she proceeded to tell me that her dad is a business man who has clients that travel to Aurangabad from Japan and China all the time--- If I wanted to change my plans he has the number to a nice hotel he always puts his business associates up in.

I thought…. Why not?! I haven’t paid anything on the hotel Dr. Dabak reserved for me, and a local told me it was not only a hotel she wouldn’t recommend to anyone, but also it was located in an unsafe area. SOLD! She called her dad and the hotel had vacancy!

(side note)

The reason I was booked at the Rajiston is because every other hotel students had previously stayed at was booked. The hotel I was supposed to stay at was a recommendation from another hotel Dr. Dabak had contacted. I felt comfortable when the arrangements had been made, but hearing that the area I would be occupying for the weekend was unsafe I was obliged to choose otherwise. We continued to talk until the bus reached Aurangabad, and since I didn’t know where I was going, her father picked us up.  He was nice enough to drop me off at the hotel. Since he books here often, her father also gave me his business discount. Hotel Windsor Castle. Indian hospitality at its finest… once again, I love this place.

I walked into a room that reminded me of home.

My Hotel

WIFI, Flat screen television AND HBO in English, Room Amenities such as a master control  motherboard right next to the bed and key required lights. By American standards it is a Red Lion on steroids, but by Indian standards I felt I was in the Taj Mahal itself. 


My View from my hotel room. Wonderful.

Go big or go home.

November 19, Saturday

Now onto my actual adventures… the international caves and Fort Daulatabad.

My day started early again, and I would be taking a taxi nearly 100 km away. We (as in my taxi driver and I) reached the caves almost 2 hours later and after walking in I knew it was going to be a good day. It happened to be national heritage week so the admission was free! I walked the path toward the stone-carved wonders and was immediately bombarded by shop owners trying to sell me this and that. It was blatantly obvious they didn’t know any English besides “come”, “yes please”, “ma’am”, and my personal favorite, “ma’am you love my shop”.  I was excellent prey in the world of small tourist shops. There were hardly any foreigners in the crowd as the caves still serve as very holy place for many citizens. The majority of the visitors were Indians from all over the country. 

I don’t have much to say, as words cannot describe the visual and sensational impressions that came with my journey through the caves. I wish Indian internet was faster (sorry for the repeated reference to slow internet again, but it would make blogging so much easier if I could speak with pictures instead of words… I mean it with the best intentions…. I promise, I really do)

Anyway, I wish I could post a fraction of the 300 pictures I took over the weekend. Not only was I trying to capture the historical profoundness of the sites, I was also trying to capture the magnitude of the rock carvings. 

Some of the carvings date back to the second century BC, Older than the Greek ruins and most other Indian ruins. Do the math--- over 2200 years, or 22 hundred centuries ago; does that give you enough perspective? 

Beautiful murals and paintings still remain on the ceilings of the caves. When I had the opportunity to view the Sistine chapel painted by Michelangelo I was awestruck by his ability to spend months on his back painting the massive chapel’s ceiling. Everyone speaks of his amazing supine painting techniques—but thousands of years prior, other artists had already conquered the same feats of equal magnitude. With less technology. Why have I not heard of this before?

Like I mentioned earlier, I was one of the only foreigners. Therefore I had not only a tour guide walk me through the caves (I must admit I got ripped off money wise, but that’s the fits of being by yourself). I also had a “helper” or “assistant” as he called it that walked me thorough the outside of the cliffs. Like many places in India removing your shoes before entry is a common courtesy and regulation. The caves were no different. While my tour guide enlightened me with the caves historical stories, my assistant carried my shoes and took pictures of me. 

He also arranged a human lift for me. I wish I knew the real name of the service, but 4 poles, + 4 men with bearing shoulders + 1 chair and me = the picture explains it the best! 

It was an expensive day by accident, but worth every penny. This is where I must admit that even though I am very skilled at bargaining and negotiating prices, I failed to remember that important step at the caves.

It was a fun weekend nonetheless. 

November 28, Sunday

More caves and Daulatabad Fort

Carved into the mountains of Aurangabad are huge monolithic statues. Over the course of two days I walked through over 50+ caves inscribed with Buddhism and Hinduism history.  At one time these beautiful sculptures served more than just for aesthetic purposes—they were religious and occupied by individuals dedicating their body and soul to its cause. 

Their construction was a science- perfect acoustically sound architecture echoing the sacred hymns and chants, small barrack like structures meant to house hundreds of men, a dining hall, a prayer hall, a crypt, a teaching hall and even archaic toilets! I was walking on the same ground that dedicated folks served on day-in and day-out. It was both eerie and sensational!

Daulatabad Fort

Massive. 

One dry mote, one wet mote, isolated on a mountainside, 200 meters above sea level. Three strong and imposing fortifications or ramparts and eight massive imposing gates. The doors were framed in a pattern which could resist breakage from elephant stomping (apparently a widely used and successful tactic back in the day). Zig-zag entrances guarded by big canons on all sides and a massive temple in the middle to serve for spiritual purposes.

Go big or go home.

My Aurangabad trip served for so many purposes. I dominated another city, in country 8000 miles away from home and met two friends in the process. One was Purva who I spoke of before, and on the return ride home another Indian girl sat next to me on the bus.

I was sleeping of course, but when I woke up about half way back to Pune we started talking. Her name was Swapnili. She is 21, an MBA student, and the first girl of her kind I have met in India. It was a huge breath of fresh air to listen to her story. She is progressive and doesn’t want to follow traditional Indian ideals. She will get her MBA in 6 months, and from there she wants to start her career. She finished 10^th standard a year early, and therefore is finishing her masters a year early too. She will be a fully qualified businesswoman at 22.

Progressiveness characteristic #1: finishing early, taking the long strides it requires to surpass classmates of your own age.

Progressiveness characteristic #2: She doesn’t want to get married until she is 27-28.

Her father hasn’t wanted to support her financially since she made the decision to move to another city just for the purpose of furthering her education. She is from a town 100km away from Pune. She has been counting numbers and marketing schemes as long as I have been performing surgeries on sandwiches. Her ultimate goal was to get her MBA and open a firm. Her mom supports her decisions even amid the disagreement of her father. Despite all surrounding circumstance her uncle could see her passion so he opted to financially back her education.

It is unfortunate to me because the only praise she has ever gotten from her father is hearing him tell others his daughter is obtaining her MBA. He uses her accomplishments to his advantage and never directly commends her. At the moment she is doing what she thought impossible. She has received much discouragement and lack of support, but even still she continues.

It saddens me because from my point of view, for Swapnili  the worst is yet to come. She has vocalized that she doesn’t want to get married until she opens up her owns business and really establishes herself professionally. In India, ladies get married from 23-25… after that, depending on who you talk with you may be considered damaged, too old and spoiled  goods, She doesn’t want that and can recognize that it doesn’t have to be that way. In my view she should be allowed to focus on her, and herself alone before she makes a commitment to someone else. An arranged marriage--- of course not. A Love marriage--- she is just waiting for the right guy to come by.

She is the type of woman India needs.

If India truly wants to revolutionize into a progressive society- it is her attitude that is needed

 

I have the highest hopes for her. 

We talked for a little over 3 hours where I told her stories of women in the US who didn’t marry until 30+. Some because they were too busy being incredibly successful businesswomen, and others just because they didnt want to, or were not personally ready.

In the US it is perfectly acceptable.

She referenced movie plots where a challenge between a woman and man arose, and in the end the women prevailed. I thought… she is referencing movie plots to keep her drive alive. She really can’t comprehend that in other parts of the world her dreams are a reality every day. She told me her life motto regarding her triumph against discouragement is If a woman can give birth to a man, a woman can be just as successful. By American standard, many would say DUH!

I realized that a young woman of 21 was sitting next to me fighting an internal struggle.  She knew what she wanted and had the tools to do so but didn’t know how to maintain all of that. Throughout our whole conversation I found myself continually saying that I hope she can continue to be strong. I told her she is absolutely capable of it. I know she is, but I cant help but think it is only going to get worse. I just met the girl and I knew her life was either going to be very difficult for the next few years, or she would succumb to traditional and get married. I have high hopes for the latter.

Swapnili served so much more than conversation; she also served as a personal milestone.  I realized how strong I am myself, but also how lucky I am to be able to make decisions about my career, life, marriage and future entirely on my own. I am a 23-year-old woman traveling across the world, alone. Something Swapnili and the majority of other Indian women could never do… even if they wanted to. 
It makes me extremely thankful for the family I was born into, and the friends whom surround me with positive attitudes everyday.  Love you, and miss you all.

I am realizing a lot more being by myself in India. I knew I was going to be alone, but since I have reached Pune and been solo in India, I have never felt so surrounded by people. Yes, I am by myself but at no point have I actually been by myself. I have been in Pune for 3 weeks and I have 4 different people in my phone that want me to spend time with them. Grab dinner, meet their family, go shopping, hang out, or just chat. I feel so loved. I feel so lucky to be here. I thought since I was by myself I would have even more time to talk to my family and friends—but that is the furthest thing from the truth! I feel like there is not enough time in the day. I posted about sleeping, and while this is true, I am still always go, go, go!  I need more time in India, I am not ready to go home. Good thing I have some time left!

Xoxo,
India and Shelane

PS: I posted 2 entries at once! So make sure to keep reading and go to the next post, its delicious!